I have an overwhelming urge to have fried chicken all of a sudden. Not the KFC shit. Real fried chicken. Like my aunt used to make. But since she died in 1980, I'm going to have to find a substitute. I lit upon Roscoe's Chicken and Waffles, which native Angelenos have talked about reverently, but there's obviously no Roscoe's here. So what do I do? Where do I go? If you have any insight on fried chicken-selling emporia here or in the Phoenix area or maybe even El Paso, please let me know. I'm desperate.